PLANTS THAT WORK IN SMALL SPACES!!!
Check out the new Nooks & Crannies now in the garden center. This program is a collection of unique plants for small spaces that insure easy care and low maintenance.
This plant collection is prefect for rock gardens, pondscapes, along a pathway or in a pathway.
| Pond FAQ |
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1. I have green, murky water, how can I get rid of it? Green Water is often the result of excessive organic material and strong sunlight. This is a unicellular algae which sometimes produces an undesirable ‘pea soup’ affect in your pond. Pond water becomes clouded with suspended material such as algae, and fine particles that do not settle due to their minute size. These conditions, with strong sunlight cause bacterial algae blooms. A chemical can be used such as a water clarifier or phosphate control mechanism to coagulate particles together and make them heavy enough to sink to the bottom of the pond or be swept away with a filtration system. Increasing in popularity are biofiltration systems, which range from simple mechanisms to complete full season water clarification programs. From a submersable prefilter all the way up to a pond skimmer and UV-light sterilizer; biofiltrations systems range in price and effectivness. To set up the best system for your pond talk to the experts at Renck’s Garden Center to find out what system is best for your unique needs 2. I have stringy algae, what is causing this and how can I get rid of it? Stringy algae, or moss like algae, clings to just about anything placed in the pond. This particular type of algae is actually desirable as it serves as a passive filter and is not a type which clouds the water. To prevent excessive growth of this algae scanengers can be used to graze upon it, or an algaecide can be used. Remember an algaecide only acts on existing and treatment will not keep a pond clear indefinitely. It is a temporary control and will not change conditions in the pond which caused the algae to grow in the first place. Your best defense against any algae is having 60% –70% of your ponds surface area covered with aquatic plants. This is recommended in reducing sunlight to pentrate and feed algae. Generally speaking, setting up a biofiltrations system as mentioned in question 1. will help keep stringy algae under control. 3. How deep does my pond need to be? Pond depth at a bare minimum should be no less than 18”-24”. This is the lowest depth required for fish to overwinter. Any less of a depth runs the risk of the pond to freeze over and killing oranmental fish. For larger ponds a depth of 24” – 36” is recommended as a minimum. 4. What precautions do I need to take while getting ready to winterize my pond? Hardy water plants should be cut off from fertilization in early fall and trimmed back at the same time. Move all hardy water plants to the deepest part of the pond for overwintering. Tropicals, which should be treated as annuals, can be atempted to be overwintered indoors. Do so by packing them in a bucket filled with water and sphagnum peat moss. The root stock must not freeze. A prime location would be in a basement. To help ensure the survival of ornamental fish all year round a pond deicer is an excellent option. The pond deicer creates an ice free ring in your pond which allows oxygen in and deadly methane to exit. 5. What pump is recommended for my pond? Pumps are absolutely vital for any balanced pond ecosystem. Moving water adds a dimension of visual beauty to any water garden, as well as providing vital aeration. Recommended pond turnover is every two hours. This means that all pond water should be filtered through a pump every two hours. As a general rule, pumps should have a minimum flow of one-half of your ponds size in gallons (ie 1500 gallon pond should use a 750 GPH pump). The more circulation in your pond, the more aeration and the happier your fish and pond will be. 6. Can I use tap water to fill my pond, should I refill my pond every spring after cleaning? Most municipal water suppliers add chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals to make water safe for human consumption. As a result city water is harmful to pond inhabitants. Using a water prep chemical allows tap water to be instantly used as safe pond water. A water prep chemical must be added whenever tap water is added to a pond. Well water is ok for fish and aquatics and can be used without any treatment. Draining your pond for a good spring cleaning is the only time you want to totally drain your pond. Naturally throughout the year your pond gains natural micro-organisms and beneficial enzymes.If sufficient reserves are lacking your pond can be overrun by algae. Draining your pond more than once will deplete reserves and cause algae to thrive. 7. How often must I fertilize my pond plants? Feed aquatic plants to maximize beauty and get the most of your plant investment. Plant food tablets are formulated to feed all pond plants while reducing the release of chemicals into the water which would encourage algae growth. Waterlilies and tropicals are particually heavy feeders and require more attention than hardy marginals. One tablet, every other week, is sufficient feeding during peak growing season for tropicals, as well as some marginals. Waterliles, due to their larger size, can be feed two tablets every other week. To feed using tablets, push the tablet 2”-3” deep into the soil as close to the tuber, bulb or crown as possible.bulb or crown as possible. 8. What is preferred, rubber liner or a hard shell liner, and how can I tell what size to buy? By far flexible rubber liner is preferred over hard shell liners. Rubber liners offer the independence most water gardeners demand. Preformed hard shell liners are far more work and less rewarding over the long run. Renck’s Garden Center offers a highly durable rubber liner constructed of a 45 mil EPDM. There is no better way to assure an easy to build, long-lasting, and puncture resistant pond than using the 45 mil liner which is guaranteed for 20 years. Hard shell liners tend to be aesthetically as well as artistically restricting to the pond owner. In order to determine the right size of liner use this formula. Size of liner = (length of pond + twice max depth + 2 feet) by (Width of pond + twice max depth + 2 feet) 9. How important are filtration systems and why should I filter? Filter systems are a great time saving device. Filters remover algae, fish waste, and any particulate matter clouding a pond. Since a filter is so efficient in removing matter from a pond, your pond is less likely to become cloudy or murky. Biofiltrations system can help you enjoy your pond more through less work, time savings, and clearer more enjoyable water quality. 10. How do I calculate my water volume for recommended plant and fish stocking levels and chemicals doses?
The volume of the pond equals: Rectangle: length*width*depth = volume in cubic feetCircle: 3.14*pool radius*pool radius*depth = volume in cubic feetOval: 3.14*(1/2 width*1/2 length*depth) = volume in cubic feet The number of gallons in the pond equals the volume in cubic feet times 7.5. |



